Last summer/late, I sanded my older wooden garage door exterior then used 2 coats of oil primer before finishing with a very dark Sherwin Williams “Aqua” latex paint.
I didn’t paint the inside of the door but did seal all edges/sides.
Looked beautiful for a month or so then coastal damp weather was on and the paint started to bubble. After painting, can’t remember if next day or later, the weather was humid moist maybe a few drizzles.
Now I am sanding off bubbles and wonder what to do next as under the spots the wood looks bare. Where did primer go? I am stuck. Do I strip it all and start again? Do I paint over removed bubbles?
The paint peels in areas after I sand…did none of it adhere?
I also put a clear crack filler around panels last year which took forever to dry…7 days plus. In some spots it still had a bit of stickiness when I painted over it but I was told that was fine. So do I remove that as well?
Can’t say I know how to prime just bare spots then repaint. Worry it will just keep bubbling. There doesn’t seem to be bubbles on framing of door around all panels just on panels so I wondered if I could just leave that area alone. Stuck!
2 Responses
The problem arises from the dark finish coat transferring heat through to the coats of primer beneath. The primer react to the heat as if you had used a heat gun on it and lets go especially if there was old residue of old linseed oil based paint. This softens and lets go and with the surface tension that is created when acrylics dry (they pull together as they dry) it tends to pull off unsound coats beneath. Also the water base paints don't adhere well to oily primers and tend to peel eventually. Best to used an acrylic primer and lighter finish colour to reflect rather than absorb heat.
When encountering bubbles on a garage door during a painting project, it is crucial to understand the underlying causes to effectively address the issue. Bubbles typically form when moisture or air becomes trapped under the paint or primer, leading to a lack of adhesion to the surface.
If you have sanded off the bubbles and noticed bare wood underneath, this could indicate that the primer did not adequately bond to the surface. In this case, it is important to consider whether the primer was applied correctly, if it was suitable for the type of wood and conditions, and if proper preparation steps were taken before priming.
As the wood looks bare in some spots, it is essential to assess the extent of the damage. If the bare areas are localized and limited, you may opt to spot-priming those sections before repainting. However, if the bare spots are extensive or if the adhesion issues persist, it may be necessary to strip the paint and primer completely to start afresh.
When deciding whether to strip the entire surface or proceed with spot-priming, consider factors such as the overall condition of the garage door, the time and effort involved in stripping versus spot-priming, and your desired outcome in terms of longevity and appearance.
In situations where the bubbles were a localized issue and the rest of the surface is intact, you can repaint over the removed bubbles after ensuring proper surface preparation, priming, and painting techniques are employed. However, if the problem persists or if the bubbles reappear after repainting, it may be indicative of a more significant underlying issue that requires thorough inspection and corrective measures.
In conclusion, addressing bubbles on a garage door involves diagnosing the root cause, assessing the extent of the damage, and determining the most suitable course of action based on the specific circumstances. Whether you choose to spot-prime, repaint, or strip the surface, ensuring proper preparation, priming, and painting practices will be key to achieving a successful and long-lasting finish.