To provide the best experiences, we use technologies like cookies to store and/or access device information. Consenting to these technologies will allow us to process data such as browsing behavior or unique IDs on this site. Not consenting or withdrawing consent, may adversely affect certain features and functions.
The technical storage or access is strictly necessary for the legitimate purpose of enabling the use of a specific service explicitly requested by the subscriber or user, or for the sole purpose of carrying out the transmission of a communication over an electronic communications network.
The technical storage or access is necessary for the legitimate purpose of storing preferences that are not requested by the subscriber or user.
The technical storage or access that is used exclusively for statistical purposes.
The technical storage or access that is used exclusively for anonymous statistical purposes. Without a subpoena, voluntary compliance on the part of your Internet Service Provider, or additional records from a third party, information stored or retrieved for this purpose alone cannot usually be used to identify you.
The technical storage or access is required to create user profiles to send advertising, or to track the user on a website or across several websites for similar marketing purposes.
2 Responses
Sounds like you have a bit of work ahead. I have a few ideas that might help you, but without any spraying, finishing the doors will still be a lot of work.
First is the set up. I like to stain and finish doors when they are standing, in an upright position. The doors can be connected to each other with simple angle brackets. (Check out this page for more details – <a href="https://project.annexal.com/house-painting-old/painting-doors.html">Painting Doors</a>, about halfway down.) This will give you access to all sides of the doors.
Second, this deals with the staining. Use a lamb's wool stain pad or cut a ? inch lamb's wool roller in half. Use one of these to apply a wiping stain. It is faster than brushing alone. You will still need a brush for some areas.
Test the stain with one of these applicators on a piece of poplar and thin the stain if necessary for the best color. You will still need to wipe the doors down, but at least the stain application will be faster.
The application of a finish is still going to be time consuming. I highly recommend using an airless sprayer with a 310 tip.
Spraying really isn't very hard. Most mistakes are using to much pressure with a big tip. By using a small tip the pressure can be turned down, allowing you more time during the spraying.
If spraying is out of the question then try using a small weenie mohair roller, then lay off with a brush. This method is fine for varnish and most polyurethane's. Some acrylic urethane's can also be rolled. You will have to test this method with the finish you are going to use.
Everything else is the same. Sanding is best done with a fine sanding sponge. And a shop vac can be used before tacking. Then the second or third coat of wood finish is applied.
Sounds like you have a bit of work ahead. I have a few ideas that might help you, but without any spraying, finishing the doors will still be a lot of work.
First is the set up. I like to stain and finish doors when they are standing, in an upright position. The doors can be connected to each other with simple angle brackets. (Check out this page for more details – <a href="https://project.annexal.com/house-painting-old/painting-doors.html">Painting Doors</a>, about halfway down.) This will give you access to all sides of the doors.
Second, this deals with the staining. Use a lamb's wool stain pad or cut a ? inch lamb's wool roller in half. Use one of these to apply a wiping stain. It is faster than brushing alone. You will still need a brush for some areas.
Test the stain with one of these applicators on a piece of poplar and thin the stain if necessary for the best color. You will still need to wipe the doors down, but at least the stain application will be faster.
The application of a finish is still going to be time consuming. I highly recommend using an airless sprayer with a 310 tip.
Spraying really isn't very hard. Most mistakes are using to much pressure with a big tip. By using a small tip the pressure can be turned down, allowing you more time during the spraying.
If spraying is out of the question then try using a small weenie mohair roller, then lay off with a brush. This method is fine for varnish and most polyurethane's. Some acrylic urethane's can also be rolled. You will have to test this method with the finish you are going to use.
Everything else is the same. Sanding is best done with a fine sanding sponge. And a shop vac can be used before tacking. Then the second or third coat of wood finish is applied.