Possibly the best exterior finish is elastomeric paint. This coating is so durable it can out perform even the best 100% exterior acrylic paint by 2 to 1. Elastomeric paint forms a durable, tough film that provides a waterproof coating to almost any structure. This paint is resistant to sunlight, heat, cold and wind driven rain.
Plus, it can be applied to all masonry surfaces, particularly stucco and concrete block. But is equally suitable for wood and T-111 siding, check your particular manufacture for compatibility with wood.
You can eliminate cracking in masonry and many types of wood with this very thick coating. Elastomeric coatings have tremendous elongation characteristics, it will bridge and repair non-structural hairline cracks.
This is especially useful with stucco that has developed numerous cracks. But wood surfaces, such as T-111 siding, can gain great benefits from its use. T-111 siding develops a large number of cracks over time. These imperfections must be completely filled with primer and paint or water will penetrate beneath the finish and cause peeling.
Many homeowners, and painters alike, try multiple coats of paint to fill these cracks. This doesn’t last very long. With peeling starting in just 2-3 years with the paint degenerating quickly there after.
Elastomeric Paint Doesn’t Need Multiple Coats
With 2 coats of elastomeric paint over an excellent primer, the cracks will be filled and water will not be able to penetrate. When properly applied a 100% acrylic paint can last 10 years, but an elastomeric coating can last much longer.
When compared to standard house paints the overall cost of this coating is about 50% more.
This is due to increase costs per gallon plus a small spread rate, 50-75 square feet per gallon is typical. If you are paying for labor as well, the cost of application of this coating will be also be higher. A do-it-yourself home owner can apply this product, if you have previous painting experience.
I have applied this coating to T-111 and masonite siding, plus stucco and concrete block, with excellent results. Providing a beautiful finish that will last for many years.
Brush and roller or airless paint sprayer can be used to apply this type of coating. Because of the heavy consistency of this product, a large powerful sprayer is needed. 1 gal per minute output or more is recommended with a tip size of 521 or larger. Choose the spray tip according to the pump manufactures recommendations. Thin this paint with water, if needed, and clean up with a mild soap and water.
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197 Responses
Elastomeric is absolutely the WORST exterior paint, here is why: when it fails, you are screwed. You cannot coat over it because with age it develops pores and the new paint will be pushed off via water bubbles. It cannot be too thin or too thick, or it will fail. Your only choice is to remove it completely, but it is so tough it resists chemical strippers, it is so flexible it resists pressure washing and sandblasting. The only way to remove it is with scrappers and heat… this is absolutely the most expensive way to remove paint. I am looking at about $15k to prep for a $6k paintjob. So many places touting the virtues of elastomeric paint, yet nobody knows what to do WHEN it fails.
Many brands of elestomeric coatings can be painted over with regular house paint, good quality house paint. We use Sherwin Williams elastomerics without any problems but stucco failures, excessive liming, can cause the coating to fail.
Yes it is a tough coating but has its limits.
I’m building my room and am using Greenboard Drywall ( water and mild / mildew resistant ) I want to know if Elastrometric paint can be used on drywall ?? Trying to make as easy as possible to clean and to prevent any moisture from getting out of the room.. Thanks in advance for the help..
I suppose Elastomeric paint could be used this way but using a specialized product would be better. Drylock primer is designed to block out water and moisture transfer through different materials. To water proof an interior room use an epoxy.
Elastomeric coating is commonly applied to split faced block used on store buildings, and is often recoated with house paint. Never a problem. It is much more durable than house paint. I don’t know why it is not sold over the counter for repaint projects, it’s not that expensive.
In reply to Kozzy420247.
Building a room? What kind of room? I’m assuming a bathroom since you are using green board? I would not use elastomeric. It’s expensive, very thick (have you ever tried making a nice cut in line with pudding? lol) and basically over kill. Alkyd paint would be best if you are expecting a lot of moisture that cant leave the room (like a bathroom with no exhaust or windows. It’s a lot harder to clean up if you miss any drops and can smell pretty strong. But finally, if the room is in great shape, has typical ventilation, a regular latex paint with a sheen would be perfectly fine. The more the sheen, the better the resistance and easier it wipes off.
Whats the titanium dioxide levels of this elastomeric paint? A couple of bids I got emphasize that as the better ingredient to look for. Personally, I don’t know squat about paints. Just do not want to get ripped off. Or get into tripple paint removal costs or something in 5-10 down the road.Since I bought this abode, I have painted it 3 times, about every 5 years, with home depot beher paint. Crud on the comparison scale according to some paint contractors.
In reply to Kevin F.
You will need to ask the manufacture as to titanium levels but it is no different that most quality paints. Titanium dioxide makes paints white plus improve coverage and uv stability. It’s in all paints.
An elastomeric coating is a very good option for your home. Research the brands offered in the bids. Sherwin Williams has some good elastomeric paints.
When you say Drylok primer, do you mean Drylok Masonry Waterproofer ,which is a paint but isused as the primer for elastomeric paint? I am considering to first apply Drylok as primer on a painted stucco wall before applying elastomeric paint, to stop water intrusion. Is this a recommended practice? Thanks a lot for the clarification.
In reply to Charles S.
That will work fine. The idea is to add a tough water resistant layer under the elastomeric paint. I never used Drylok as a finish paint but have used it under other paints to stop water intrusion. Combined with the elastomeric coating this should be a tough as it can get.
Thank you so much for the comment!!!
I am going to have my house painted using elastomeric paint. Is it important to use the elastomeric patching compound on cracks? Is it ok to do one coat of elastomeric and one coat of regular paint?
In reply to Karen.
The patching compound must be used on large non-structural cracks, typically anything over an 1/16th wide. Tight cracks can be painted over.
One coat of elastomeric is fine if it is thick enough, follow the manufactures specs for mil-thickness. Typically it is easier to just apply 2 coats, the first back-rolled to fill surface cracks and pores, then a second to get the proper thickness of the dry film.
We live right on the sea front so the house takes a battering with salt and wind and all elements. Is this the best paint for it?
In reply to Claudia Rosencrantz.
An elestomeric coating would be a good choice but it has limitations and would require reapplication sooner in your environment. All paints and coatings will degrade faster when exposed to salt spray. Consult with your local paint store for suitability and possible options.
I live in a condo right on the beach. 12 years ago we painted the exterior of our condo with a silicone based elastomeric paint. It has held up well. However, the literature on the paint says 12 yrs is about the time to repaint. I was a chemist with a career in rubber and plastics but have been retired for 20 years. Back in my day… the only thing that would stick to silicone was silicone. Other polymers would not adhere. Therefore, I assume that we should go back on top of the original silicone elastomer paint with more silicone elastomer paint. !!! Do you disagree? Wouldn’t it be a mistake to use an acrylic based paint on top of the silicone based paint?
In reply to David B.
Completely agree, go with the manufactures recommendations. Applying an acrylic elastomeric would most likely peel, a real mess.
We bought a large house in the mountains (direct sun and snow exposure) with wood siding and the paint is chipping all over. We were considering replacing the wood with vinyl siding but are also looking for a cheaper durable alternative. Do you think this product would be an appropriate option?
In reply to Lisa.
An elestomeric coating is a good alternative to regular paint and other more expensive coverings in many circumstances. The prep, removal of loose chipped paint, is still very important and if not done correctly will result in premature failure of the coating. If you go down this path make sure the preparation is done correctly and throughly. Contact your local paint store for more details about the prep and application of their elastomeric coating.
Thanks so much! Appreciate the feedback. 🙂
I have a section of stucco wall stained by polyurethane insulation. The material was removed but the residue turned brown from uv exposure. How can this be covered?
I am considering an elastomeric coating over my stucco house. It is quite rough with a rock and glass dash. My concern is adhesion to the glass. Any thoughts on its suitability?
In reply to Claude.
A good quality elastomeric will stick just fine. This coating is very sticky and grips quite well. Double check the recommendations with your local paint store.
In reply to Ken.
The stucco itself will need painting in order to cover this up. Prime with an acrylic stain blocking primer then paint. If the stain wants to come through the primer then you will need to use an oil base primer like Zinsser Cover Stain.
I live in Colorado. I have only just heard about elastomeric paint. I am wondering if it would be good to use on the wooden window trim on an all brick home. My reason for looking into a GOOD paint is that many of my painted surfaces face south and take almost constant sunlight. My paint color has always been a barnish red to match my brick, which seems to take the heat even more.
In reply to Shanna.
Elastomeric paint is a possibility but a good house paint might hold up better as red and on wood. After prepping and priming the elastomeric can be used as a first coat to fill in small cracks and provide a strong membrane for the finish paint. A really good paint to use is Sherwin Williams Duration or Resilience. If I remember correctly the Sherwin Williams Resilience has a red base, this will not only give better coverage but also better UV resistance.
Does this paint offer any insulating properties that qualify for Title 24 grants?
In reply to Sue.
Standard elastomeric coating do not offer any insulating properties but this will be different fort each manufacture. Consult with your local paint stores for more information.
In reply to Dave.
Hi Dave, I have considered painting the South wall, which takes a beating with wind driven rain and afternoon sun in the Sacramento area. I have considered exactly your scenario. So, how do you remove elastomeric paint over stucco when it fails? What other alternatives are there to make a stucco wall watertight?
Hi, I’m building a Dome Home in Australia constructed of 6×4 timber made into triangular frames, covered in H3 structural ply 17mm thick, ie oil treated. Would drywall as a primer then 2 coats of Elastomeric paint be suitable for this job. Thanks
In reply to chris McMillan.
You would need to choose a good wood primer before the application of any coating. An elastomeric coating will have some challenges with this type of construction. All joints would need special treatment to accommodate the movement, special sealants/caulkings. Check with your local supplier/manufacture before committing to using a standard elastomeric coating.
An option is to use an EFIS system with a trowel applied color coat. EFIS is a synthetic stucco system that is applied over foam insulation. The foal would be attached to the dome with glue and screws, a base coat is applied with a fiberglass mesh then the troweled elastomeric color coat is applied.
We are having our old painted repurposed brick chimneys replaced as moisture can’t escape and it’s causing various problems. While we went with “white” brick to match our white house it still looks very red next to the painted house. Now we’re considering the elastomeric paint instead of waterproofing the brick. We would most likely paint our entire brick house at the same time with this paint. I see pros and cons on your forum. Do you think this is our best course of option? Already almost 20K into this project and we obviously need it done correctly. Thank you.
In reply to Mike Goheen.
An elastomeric coating is specifically designed for brick as well as other masonry surfaces. It is a better choice than regular house paint. With proper prep, cleaning and application of a masonry primer, a high quality elastomeric coating should be problem free and last for many years. Your only alternative is stucco, not cheap.
I live at the Beach. house is stucco and needs to be repainted. Various painters have made proposals. Do you have a preference to the following choices:
1. PPG Perma crete Pitt-flex, two coats
2. Loxon XP, two coats
3. Loxon conditioner primer, 1 coat and then Loxon XP two coats
4. SW Sherlastic, two coats
In reply to Neil Dorfman.
These are all good choices but I would go with #3. Primer then 2 coats of Loxon XP will take a beating and still have good permeability. Plus it can easily be painted over in the future.
I have a stucco house that needs repainting. The previous paint was a CHIC Liquid Vinyl coating. I have proposals for the following paints;
Cloverdale Towerthon Elastomeric – two coats
Dulux Diamond Exterior – 2 coats
Dulux Perma-Crete 100% Acrylic High Build – 2 coats
Which of these coatings do you think is the best given the prior coating. I want a coating that will last 10 years.
In reply to Ian Wellman.
I would go with the Dulux Diamond, 2 coats. This assumes the previous paint isn’t peeling really bad and the stucco is in good overall shape.
It isn’t a good idea to apply true elastomeric coatings over previous paints, only over themselves. The same goes for the Perma-Crete, although the Perma-Crete patching compounds can be used for stucco repairs if needed.
Thanks for your advice
In reply to Rosalia Gonzalez.
I would put on a new finish coat, then use a concrete sealer or the like. That will need repeating every couple years. Why do you want it to be watertight is my first question. Houses need to breathe a bit. Anyway if you didn’t need watertight, I would just plan on putting on a new finish coat. Add a bit of Acryl60, an acrylic type glue specific for cement products. This will make the material a bit harder to spread (I am a plasterer) but just bite of smaller areas. Acryl60 does really make a very water resistant finish and you can paint in ten years. Good luck
I live in the desert with sunny dry and windy weather conditions. My house has stucco previously painted with elastomeric and now needs to be repainted. Various painters have made proposals. Should I use acrylic or elastomeric paint on top of another elastomeric?
In reply to Natalia.
You can go either way. If the existing elestomeric coating is in good shape, just faded, then regular good paint is fine. In most cases priming isn’t needed, just clean and paint.
Hey All,
Fellow HOA Board Member patched heavily textured stucco with standard (non-textured) patch material and then applied one coat of elastomeric paint. Repair areas really show. Can we put a textured patching material on top of the elastomeric first coat and then a second coat? Does it need to be an elastomeric patching compound? If not, any ideas? Also, if permitted please recommend specific brand of patching compound!
In reply to Jim.
You will need to use an acrylic stucco color coat or patching compound. The local Sherwin Williams sells tintable Total Wall color coats in a couple different textures. This might be a good alternative for you. Check you local paint stores for available supplies, if not there then call around for a stucco supplier.
Good brands I have used are Total Wall, STO and La Habra. They are all have good products that can be used for this purpose.
I have a now 40 year old shed with ¼ inch redwood plywood exterior siding with battens covering the seams and the in between areas just for effect. It was originally painted with a full body stain. On the South facing side some small narrow strips of the surface exterior plies began pealing up. This happened during the first or second year so I removed the pealing part and repainted the complete building with another heavy coat of the full bodied stain. Probably no surprise, the same thing reoccurred again within a year or so. At that point, about 30+ years ago I thought I will just remove and residing the building with stucco. Procrastination set in and now 30+ years later I am thinking Stucco may be a stretch of my physical ability at this point as the years have passed. The wood seems to be stable now but the bottom portions of the redwood siding now have several 1/16 deep, maybe 1/8 wide, groves running vertically, eroded in the wood. They are just in the bottom 1 ½ to 2 foot area on the South wall side only. That would be the main Sun and rain main impact area.
As I understand, the manufacturing of redwood plywood siding was discontinue in 1982. The rest of the wood is checkered up and has pealing stain which would certainly need to be cleaned up. Do you think an elastomeric coating would be a workable long term solution, thinking for the grooved area I described? Other suggestions or prep ideas would be welcomed? Thanks
In reply to DR.
The right elastomeric coating will be a good choice for your shed. Not all elastomerics are the same, make sure it’s rated for wood surfaces (some are masonry only). Also, make sure you have good weather. Thick coatings need warm temperatures and dry conditions to dry and cure properly, over 50 degree days with over 40 at night for a few days is needed.
Prep; A good sanding to remove all loose stain is needed. If you wind up with a lot of raw wood after sanding then 2 coats of wood primer would be a good idea, thin the first coat for better penetration into the wood. An oil base wood primer is preferred but if not available to you then any good primer will do. Caulk in all large cracks, over hairline, with a very good stretchy paintable caulking.
After the prep 2 coats of the elastomeric should be applied. Allow to dry overnight before recoating.
In reply to admin.
Thanks for the quick reply
I certainly appreciate your help and your detailed instructions.
Thanks again
In reply to Dave.
Thanks, won’t use.
I have a portion of my home that is covered with a product called Granix. It’s a fiberglass reinforced board with a rough aggregate finish. The panel joints are caulked and need to be redone. I live in Northern CANADA where we get extreme cold in the winter and warm humid summers. I’m looking for a good waterproof product that would cover the Granix and give me a nice durable finish.
I have an old 1940’s house with stucco and painted brick exterior. Unfortunately, it’s located on the adobe clay soil of the San Joaquin Valley, which continually expands and contracts, The painted brick exterior is poor condition, and I know I’ll have some repointing of the mortar joints to deal with, as well as removing some flaking paint. Is elastomeric still my best option?
In reply to Skip Carroll.
An elastomeric coating is a good option in your situation. A quality elastomeric properly applied can stretch or contract with your home, eliminating many problems.
In reply to Canuck.
A god quality exterior house paint will work well. The key to problem free longevity is proper prep and not scrimping on the paint. You will need to clean and prime first then caulk in the joints. Check out your local paint store for a suitable primer.
Has anyone tried to remove elastomeric paint on glass? I need help.thanks!
In reply to Francis.
Tough to do depending on thickness. Use a fresh sharp flat razor blade and glass cleaner, the cleaner acts as a lubricant. If scraping won’t work then use alcohol to soften and a razor to remove.
In reply to admin.
I just had Total Wall put on my new home, and it already has some hairline cracks. I tried to paint over it using Sherlastic in the patio area, and it takes 3 or 4 coats to cover. The wall just sucks up the paint. It’s even worse when painting Total Wall with exterior Super Paint. I was told I should use Blocker Filler Paint first and then apply the Sherlastic paint.
Any thoughts on this would be much appreciated. Painting Total Wall with Super paint requires several coats and it still doesn’t seal it very well. The paint is just soaked up. I tried calling the Total Wall rep, but no calls back.
Thanks,
Robin
One more question. Since I already put on two coats of Sherlastic can I paint over it with Preprite pro block filler paint from Sherwin Williams and then use the two more coats of Sherlastic? This is what the painter wants to do now since the Total Wall just sucks up the Sherlastic paint like a sponge at $40.00 a gallon. The Preprite is only around $10.00 a gallon.
In reply to Roboman.
As you found out priming is needed. Any acrylic masonry primer would work, including block fill primer. Block filler is rather thick, similar to the elastomeric, so some thinning might be needed for you to spray or roll. If thinned too much 2 or coats will be needed.
The Sherlastic is a way better coating than Super Paint. Keep using the Sherlastic but primer first.
In reply to Roboman.
Yes, this is fine. By now the Sherlastic is more a primer than a finish coating anyway. It will take a lot of Preprite to seal up the Total Wall. 2 coats for sure then the Sherlastic.
Thanks for the info and the painter is starting today. Total wall is very porous and really sucks up the paint. My builder used the SW Journeyman product. Shouldn’t the Total Wall have been sealed better or is this just the way it is with this product? It’s going to cost me a bundle to prime the Total Wall before painting because it sucks up the paint. I don’t get why the builder used it without sealing it. Is this the correct why to apply Total Wall? What would have been a better way to apply Total Wall so it is sealed better? Is priming it the only way? I was told that the builder could have used a Total Wall that has elastomeric paint mixed in with the Total Wall. Do you know of such a product?
Thanks for your help. I have a brand new home, with Total Wall as a finish coat, that has hairline cracks that soaks up paint like a sponge. I sure don’t get why the builder went this route.
Thanks again and I’m waiting on the painter ….
In reply to Roboman.
This is the way these products are. There are different kinds or grades of acrylic stucco color coats, some have more stretch or sealing powers. Total Wall has 3 or 4 different types. Sounds like a cheaper grade was used.
Sometimes the stucco contractor will seal the base coat or underlying stucco with a special primer before applying the acrylic color coat. Probably wasn’t done in your case. Might explain why it is sucking up so much paint.
The cracks might have happened when the Total Wall was drying. If it dries too fast the top portion will dry before the underlying portion does, the top is fixed in place as the underlying coat shrinks as it dries. This causes “spider web” style of cracking.
An alternative to using straight masonry primer is to flood the surface with Seal Crete (100% acrylic) to seal it up. Seal Crete is a thin clear liquid that will penetrate and seal up the pores.
Wow you are an amazing resource, thank you!
I have an exterior stucco wall running straight to our concrete footer, which will soon be filled in with dirt with grass and sprinklers up to it.
The bottom 10” of course had failing stucco, which was knocked off, a waterproofing liquid was used just in the repair area and then I patched using a rapid set one pass material (rapid set advised it because of our very smooth stucco finish).
I already bought a gallon of elastomeric paint and was planning to only paint my repair area.
Assuming the elastomeric would eventually fail because of all these factors, should I proceed with that plan?
Also, on my block wall, it is covered in only 1 coat of stucco, so it is failing and doesn’t look great…you can see the blocks, etc. I need to do a repair where the wall also meets the grass. I’m planning to use rapid set stucco patch. I’d like the wall to look better and was thinking of using the elastomeric paint over the whole wall. I’m afraid though of the horror stories of peeling, chipping… I don’t want to end up worse off than I already am.
Maybe plan to add a bonding adhesive and add another layer of stucco with color coat? But then I’m worried about the lower parts that meet the landscaping. After new stucco add a silicone water sealer? It still let’s water escape through vapors.
Sorry so long, many many thanks!
In reply to Colleen.
With the stucco getting wet often from the sprinklers I wouldn’t use an elastomeric coating. Apply a color coat, allow to dry well (min. 4 weeks to cure), then apply 2 generous coats clear Seal-Krete. This will have to be reapplied every couple years but will be easier to maintain.
When reapplying Seal-Krete use a pressure washer and about 1200-1500 psi to remove any loose sealer, allow to dry well then reapply a heavy flood coat.
Can epoxy finish exterior products be used over elastomeric?
Painting my small thick textured stucco house. Found ppg perma crete pitt flex elastomeric for 100 for 5 gal. Guy at hardware store said it was a good price.
In reply to June.
That is a good price. And it’s a good product.
In reply to deborah.
No, these are not compatible. Elastomerics are a little soft and flexable while the epoxy products are hard and brittle. Problems over time.
Hi,
I have a barn with an area where 2 pressure treated plywood panels are exposed to shady humidity and rain. I would like to maximize their durability and wondered if an elastomeric paint would be a longerterm option/solution.
In reply to dörthe.
An elastomeric coating will be fine once the plywood is properly primed. Make sure to use an oil base wood primer, if available, and apply 2 coats of the elastomeric paint for maximum protection.
I have a stucco home that was built in 1937. It is been painted multiple times most recently I think with several coats of latex paint. My painter recently came and power washed the home. He claims there are many micro-cracks now visible and wants to do one layer of elastomeric paint covered with 2 coats of high-quality Sherwin Williams latex paint.
I have several questions:
1) Will the elastomeric paint adhere to the existing power washed surface?
2) Will the new latex paint adhere to the elastomeric paint?
3) I thought I had read that elastomeric paint does not breathe well. Is there any concern about this?
4) is the earlier comment that elastomeric paint is incredibly hard to remove any cause for concern?
Thank you
In reply to Todd.
1. Your home should be primed before applying the elastomeric coating. This will make sure it sticks without any future problems.
2. Yes, a high quality “latex” paint with adhere to the elastomeric coating. Sherwin Williams Super Paint or Duration would be good choices.
3. Elastomeric coatings breath very well. The “breathability” is well known and established through standardized testing. High quality elastomeric coatings breath better than modern acrylic house paints.
4. This shouldn’t be a concern as a coat or 2 of elastomeric paint can be a great foundation for future paint jobs. So, you really don’t want it coming off and causing peeling problems as with normal house paints.
Sounds like your painter wants to establish a good foundation for both your current paint job as well as future paint jobs as well.
Thanks for the information that you have provided. I am having my house painted. We bought a house and found that its windows leaked. in replacing the leaky windows we found that the house wrap under the stucco weren’t layered properly. So we are having all seams sealed with caulking and our painter is offering to prime with Kelly Moore flat paint, and a Benjamin Moore elastomeric paint. He states that with both coats rolled on rather than sprayed he will be able to build enough thickness to not require two coats, is this correct?
thanks!
In reply to Pat.
Yes, it is possible to apply very thick coats with just a roller. It is difficult to achieve with a roller verses a sprayer. After he applies the final coat to a wall take a look and make sure you like the result, 1 heavy coat of paint can have a less desired look when compared to 2 coats.
Hi, I would like to know if elastomeric paint would work on metal shipping containers. I have many gallons of elastomeric paint that I picked up for almost nothing, and 3 containers that I would like to paint to be the same color. The existing paint is in fair shape, just faded. What prep so I need, primer?
In reply to Michael Schaefer.
It should work fine. You will need to apply a primer first then spray on the elastomeric coating.
Prep
That’s it. Once prepped the elastomeric can be applied. Recommend spraying for the best look and even coverage.
I’m planning an exterior living wall which will be held away from the wall about 3″. I figured it would be a good idea to waterproof the wall as it will be sprayed often when watering and have a warm humid environment in the space between the house and the plant fixture. Should a good quality exterior paint be enough or would elastomeric paint be advisable? I believe I have T111 siding.
In reply to Kelly Holt.
A good exterior paint will work well. Use a paint with a good sheen, semi-gloss, behind the plant wall for some added protection. Shiny paints shed water better and faster than satin or flat.
I have a ceiling in my living room with tiny settlement cracks and the tape has been replaced twice but it continues to loosen shortly after being spackled and repainted. If I use flexible tape, spackled, then primer, then elastomeric paint on the whole ceiling, would that fix the cracking or should I just buy wood and cover the ceiling in wood paneling? I can’t get the seams to look good on the ceiling.
In reply to Phil.
It might work but it’s not a true fix. Don’t know how well it will look or how long it would resist cracking. It will take more than one coat, the thickness is important for the stretchy effect.
Is your ceiling plaster or sheetrock (wallboard)? Old plaster can show cracks over time that are not related to settlement. In this case replacing the plaster or laminating over with wallboard is needed.
I had my house painted with Kelly More elastomeric paint over new stucco. Perhaps after 8 years or so, cracks of various widths showed up on the south and west side walls. I can’t see any paint stretched across the gaps. A year ago, water dripped down through a ceiling light fixture – I believe one crack started at the corner of a metal vent high on the side of a wall and the paper insulation was probably not done right, thus allowing water in. I’ve found an industrial elastomeric paint used on commercial buildings, costing more but thick enough to cover most cracks without caulking them first. Would it be a good idea to use them on the south and west sides of the house and just regular elastomeric such as the Behr band on the rest of the house?
We live in Florida where we are exposed to hurricane force winds on occasion. In 2004 we had three come through and our walls, which were painted with construction grade paint in 1999 when the house was built, leaked. We painted with elastomeric and have had no problems since. We would like to repaint, I want a bit darker color than the original. May I paint with elastomeric again without priming? The original color is a cream and I want to go with a sage.
In reply to Cynthia Ryalls-Cleph.
Yes, in most cases priming isn’t needed to repaint. Some manufactures formulate their elastomeric coatings in a way that makes them incompatible with other paints. If you still have the original manufacture/brand info for your elastomeric coating, take it with you to your local paint store and discuss your needs with the sales rep.
In reply to David.
Yes, this is fine. You should use the better elastomeric coating on the entire house, all stucco, as it is way better than any Behr product, plus you will have a more consistent seal and protection from weather events.
I live in the high desert, very, very dry and windy. My house is 14 years old, with highly textured stucco that is cracking all over. The house has never been painted. I am trying to figure out what kind of paint to use. I have read to use the elastomeric paint so it will fill in the hairline cracks, but wanted to know if regular exterior paint would do the same? I cannot afford a professional painter to do the job, so will be painting it myself. Thanks for your help.
Wanting to paint our Florida stucco home, and am looking at elastomeric paint. Have some small cracks in the southern wall due to all the heat. If I paint this wall with elastomeric and cracks reappear how can I then repair or repaint this area? Planning on painting the entire house but have concern over this one wall.
Do I need to use a primer on my stucco walls that are in great condition if I pressure wash them first? If so then is there a relatively good and cheap primer?
Home Depot has Behr elastomeric about $130 for 5 gallons. Lowes has Valspar elastomeric for about the same. Which of these would be the best paint at a reasonable price point? Or do you have other recommendations that aren’t too expensive?
Thanks.
In reply to Tedm3.
Prime all stucco with an acrylic masonry primer before applying any paint or coating, including elastomeric. Make sure to backroll (if spraying) and pound it in to seal up the pores.
Cheap and good don’t mix well. There is relatively inexpensive primers, all the major brands have their own version. I’m not familiar with Behr or Valspar. I would use Sherwin Williams Sherlastic, 2 coats.
In reply to Rut Doty.
Elastomeric coatings are not like regular paints. A regular paint will not have the thickness or stretchiness. Prime first with a good acrylic masonry primer, filling in some cracks and sealing the pores. Then apply 2 coats of a good elastmeric, like Sherwin Williams Sherlastic. This is a lot of work but doable for someone in good shape and willing to take up the challenge.
Our 3 year-old house in Central Florida has cracks that look like stairs on the two side walls and the rear wall. Some of the cracks are quite long. I’m assuming the cracks are in the stucco coating. We had an insurance adjuster look at the exterior, and he said the cracks are nothing to be concerned with and they are typical. We are selling the home, and these cracks are turning off potential buyers. The Sherwin Williams guy suggested elastomeric coating. Do we need that on the whole house, or just the cracks, with good paint on the rest of the house?
I live in a small town in Alberta, Canada and wish to change the color of our white stucco house. The stucco is in great shape even though it’s 24 years old. Just a few cracks that my stucco contractor said he would repair. Do I need to prime the existing stucco prior to painting it with elastomeric paint? I don’t want to have to repaint in a few years or have any other issues. Would you recommend elastomeric paint considering the extreme winters we get in Alberta? Or some other kind of paint? Considering that our stucco still looks good maybe leaving it alone would be a better choice. What brand would you recommend if you think elastomeric would be a good idea? Thanks a million.
In reply to Randy.
Whenever painting raw stucco always clean then apply a masonry primer (acrylic). This will provide a proper foundation for the coating. I do recommend an elastomeric coating for stucco but regular house paint will also work. Or you could just leave it alone, it’s 24 years old and in good shape.
If you choose an elastomeric I recommend Sherwim Williams Sherlastic.
Sounds like a winner for my application. I heard elastomeric is used on some race track areas. Its not invisible but I suppose the right product can take a little if not better vehiclur traffic on cement, still might scuff but it will last.
So my question is if I want to repaint over it, I should have better luck with a flexible acid based bonding primer?? & if I want to remove the paint, I know only of a pin scaler or (shot blaster) to try & pummel off the paint hopefully. Acid and power washers will be a bigger hassle?
In reply to Aaron.
Elastomeric coating as mentioned here are not intended for horizontal surfaces or for any traffic, foot or vehicular. You must be thinking of different specialized products. Contact the manufactures for their recommendations for prep and application.
I am in the process of buying a stucco home in San Diego, near the coast. The house was built in 2008 and has multiple hairline cracks around almost all windows, doors, mounted lights etc, as well as some cracks that are vertical and horizontal on various walls some that are the size of a credit card. Also there are larger chips along the flashing, and some doors. After having the cracks repaired and windows/doors sealed I wanted to know if its better to use an elastomeric coating, acrylic paint, Sherwin Williams Super paint, LoxonXP, Conflex XL, or Sherlastic. I want something that will last, that’s waterproof and if possible lower temperature of house.
In reply to Liz.
I would use the Sherlastic elastomeric coating. It has better stretch than the other products. Make sure the stucco is primed first with a masonry primer then enough Sherlastic is applied for a thick pinhole free surface, 2 thick coats coats is better than one very this coat. Don’t use regular paint at this point as it won’t perform well.
Hi, we want to pain our 15 year old stucco house in a mountain community in CA with extreme temp changes. Stucco has a lot of hairline cracks and has never been painted before. I am using big stretch elastomeric caulk for the cracks and want to use elastomeric paint (Don Edwards or Sherlastic) for our stucco. Could I have the primer color matched and do primer and one coat of paint? What would happen if we don’t use a primer and do just 2 good coats of elastomeric paint? We are doing it ourselves. Thank you very much!
In reply to Norkat.
Most primers can be tinted, although not dark colors. This does help with coverage. All exterior coatings need to applied at specific cured thicknesses in order to reach their full performance. Elastomeric coatings are no different and should be applied at the manufactures specified thickness. Sherlastic is 10.0 – 14.0 mils wet; 4.0 – 6.0 mils dry per coat with a finished 8.0 – 12.0 mils dry thickness. This is very thick, 2 coats are better than 1 thick coat.
If applied over unprimed stucco more elastomeric will be needed as the first coat will ‘soak’ in and not build up on the surface much. Using a masonry primer can remedy this and give you better performance. The primer also neutralizes the surface PH, seals in any loose particles and allows the coating to slide on easier for a better looking sealed surface, bridge those hairline cracks so they don’t come back.
Hello, I read through all the previous questions and comments and did not see anything related to my specific dilemma. A year ago we bought a house with a roof top deck/patio over the garage. The previous owners saved and gave us the paperwork for the deck installation so I know the patio was constructed using a PolyCoat (165) system- a polyurethane type waterproofing layer with a ‘aliphatic urethane’ topcoat- PolyGlaze AL-50 to be specific.
I would like to apply a new layer of topcoat- but am unsure if I should/can use a water(acrylic?) based, or solvent based elastomeric paint/coating since it is obvious that the previous owners applied something unknown to me over the original systems topcoat.
I heard that I could do a test using Xylene to determine if the existing topcoat is water based or solvent based- which I plan to do. But I have my suspicions that the previous owners may have used a water based elastomeric paint once, or maybe more, before. The current ‘mystery’ topcoat appears to be adhering pretty good, except for some areas over some metal flashing where it has cracked and become completely compromised- which is why I would like to clean that up and go over everything with a new topcoat.
So I guess my question is this: If I discover that the previous owners used a water/acrylic based elastomer over the original ‘aliphatic urethane’ topcoat, how bad is that? It appears to be adhering pretty good- so I’m hoping I can just re-apply something similar (and I’m assuming water based).
If I discover they used a solvent based topcoat- which I hope they did instead. I will go with the same PolyGlaze product as it is still available.
Also, I haven’t done the Xylene test yet- so if there’s a better way of determining between water or solvent/oil paint (in this case elastomeric), I’d appreciate any advice there as well.
Thanks in advance- and I appreciate ANY advice I can get before tackling this project.
In reply to Dom Tiller.
Instead of Xylene use denatured alcohol or rubbing alcohol to check for acrylic paint. Acrylic paints are dissolved by alcohol, will become gummy or wipe off when exposed to alcohol. Acrylic paints, including elastomeric coatings, are rather soft finishes and won’t be hard and slick.
Using a good quality urethane paint is the best but if it turns out to be an acrylic and isn’t falling off then that isn’t too bad. Either way, you will need to remove all loose and peeling paint, try to do some sanding (not always possible with acrylics), then prime the bare spots. A good oil based universal prime will work.
If it turns out to be an acrylic topcoat then stick with it and apply a top quality porch & deck paint. Don’t use a standard elastomeric coating, this is best suited for vertical masonry surfaces and shouldn’t be subjected to foot traffic.
I have a stucco house in Houston Texas 18 years old.
1. It had a elastomeric coating many years ago.
2. 2 years ago it was painted with Acrylic Latex paint
Will it be a problem to repaint OVER the Acrylic Latex with elastomeric now? If ok , 1 or 2 coats?
In reply to RayW.
You can repaint with an elastomeric over the regular house paint. Prep as usual, wash and remove any loose paint. 1 coat will be enough but depends on the condition of the original paint.
If the original elastomeric coating and regular house paint are in good shape then there isn’t a need to repaint with anything special but a high quality house paint. After just 2 years your paint should be in good shape.
Our house is ocean front at the Equator and I want to replace my cadi thatch roof with new cedar wood, which will also be the interior ceiling. I am considering using elastomeric paint over the cedar lap cut wood planks. Will the elastomeric coating be enough of a water barrier as the final roof. The other option is to put a breathable moisture barrier over the wood, then a layer of super board, a concrete type pressed board. Then coat with elastomeric. We don’t get much rain, but lots of salt spray. Recommendations ?
An elastomeric coating as mentioned in this article isn’t suitable for this application. It’s designed for vertical surfaces, mainly masonry. I think your other idea is better. An elastomeric roof coating could then be applied and give better longer lasting results.
Ok, Thank you. That is what I originally planned, but after reading the posts here, considered it just over wood.
We built a textured stucco house in Houston, TX in 2014. It was painted with a Sherwin Williams exterior latex paint. With the high heat and sun, the paint has faded, especially the darker trim color.
In spring 2019, we plan on repainting and we were considering elastomeric paint. Question, do we need to prime first, before using an Elastomeric paint?
Also, we want High resistance to color fade so plan on going with Benjamin Moore Aura exterior. Any thoughts on this brand or product?
I was thinking about this process:
1. Power wash entire exterior house
2. Apply elastomeric paint (1 coat)
3. Apply Benjamin Moore Aura (1 coat)
Do I need to apply a primer before the elastomeric coat if my house already has latex paint on it, about 5 years old?
Anything special we need to do or not do on the trimming? If we’re painting the trimming another color, does it need the coat of elastomeric? I wouldn’t think so since our trimming seems to be the foam wrapped in a thin light stucco layer.
Thanks!
In reply to Neil.
Primer isn’t needed but make sure the existing paint is clean and stable. The process you are thinking about is fine as long as the elastomeric is thick enough to get the benefit. Otherwise just apply 2 coats of Aura, which is a very good paint.
You could apply a coat of elastomeric to the foam trim when painting the main body then paint as usual, Aura in your chosen color. This will give a little more impact resistance and prefill the pores if there is any.
Am looking to paint our Florida stucco home, and have been reading up on elastomeric paints. We had all of the cracks repaired. Some were hairline cracks that were opened up and patched and in other areas the stucco (the whole wall actually) was completely replaced as we had two leaking windows. My thought is that I would get better water protection going the elastomeric route but didn’t know if that was overdoing it. I am guessing the original paint was a standard builders paint. I know the builder used Sherwin Williams just not sure which specific one. The new color is is going to be darker. I was planning on power washing, priming and painting the entire house. I was going to spray both primer and paint and back roll. My questions are as follows:
Do you recommend elastomeric or a high quality latex?
Do I need to prime before using either?
If so, do I need to backroll primer?
For each option (elastomeric or latex) which primer (if needed) and paint would you recommend? Can you give me 2 or 3 options (various price points) for each.
What sheen is recommended (flat or satin) for a darker color.
Thank you, I really appreciate your time and knowledge on this.
-Shawn
In reply to Shawn.
I would go with a good elastomeric coating. Use a masonry primer first.
We live in South Florida, and I’m interested in painting our old wood fence white with elastomeric coating. It’s never been painting, stained or sealed. We want something that will last 10+ years and won’t chip or peel. Is this a good option? Or do you recommend something else like a polymer coating used on docks?
In reply to Carlos.
It isn’t a good idea to use this coating on a fence. Sealing it up like this will trap moisture and cause rot, eventually it will peel. The only way to get 10+ years out of a fence is to use a plastic composite material instead of wood.
I would use a solid color acrylic stain. Wash the fence then apply the stain, back-rolling or back-brushing to really push it into the wood. Not too hard to to every 3-5 years.
Our stucco home was painted 11 years ago with a primer and two coats of Benjamin Moore moorlastic paint. It has held up well except for the sunny waterfront side. It has a couple of small hairline cracks and the paint has faded into some streaks only on that side. We have a couple of estimates from painters. One wants to use just another premium Benjamin Moore paint ( not elastomeric) and the other wants to use two coats of Loxon XP sherwin Williams paint. Which would you recommend. We are going with a lighter shade this time ( almost white)
Doris
I have a 91 year old stucco house that has never been painted. The stucco is on good condition but is stained in several places with reddish and gray streaks. Is there a way to remove the discoloration without painting? I would not mind changing the house color but I don’t want to open myself up to having to repaint every 7-10 years. That would be difficult for me to afford. If I do paint, it sounds like you recommend a primer before applying the elastomeric paint?
What a wonderful gift you are giving to those of us who are not expert. Thank you for your time and good information.
In reply to Susan.
Other than washing, TSP maybe, I’m not sure how to safely remove the stains. You could contact a stucco contractor about changing the color, I’ve seen the use of a powdered colorant that when applied changed stucco to a different color. Don’t know about price but might be worth while checking out.
Painting will require a primer then a paint or coating.
We are getting bids to paint our stucco house with elastomeric . The house is in Philadelphia area and the stucco has never been treated, painted or coated going on 23 years old. All painters have specified using 2 coats of Loxon XP on the stucco. Only one painter has quoted applying a masonry conditioner followed by 2 coats of Sherlastic. Which option is the best choice? Is only 2 coats of Loxon XP better or is masonry conditioner plus 2 coats of Sherlastic better? I appreciate any advice. Thank you.
In reply to Andrea Gibbs.
I like the Sherlastic option. I think it is a better longer lasting option.
What is the best paint to use on EIFS?
In reply to Daniel.
Any good house paint can be used but it will take a lot of it to fill in the pores. A good alternative is to an elastomeric. No priming is needed over an efis acrylic color coat.
I have concrete steps at my front door and want to paint them as I am selling the house. The steps have never been painted before. Most questions posted are regarding stucco houses. I’m wondering if this paint will be my best option. Will the steps require priming prior to painting? There are no obvious cracks on the walking surface. I’m not sure if the elastomeric paint is the proper product for concrete steps. Any information you can provide would be appreciated. Other than the possible need for a primer, and obviously cleaning the concrete are there any other considerations I should be looking at regarding the prep process?
In reply to Jim.
No, elastomeric coatings are for vertical walls only. Use a concrete stain, solid colored. Make sure to properly prepare the steps before staining.
We have a 25 year old integral color coated stucco house near the SF Bay, and we have local exterior humidity levels that are typically above 60%, and often above 70-80% (more on foggier days, of course). The stucco is in fairly good shape, without significant cracks, but we’ve been told by a painter that it is thirsty and needs to be repainted. We would love to benefit from reduced chance of moisture penetration, and potentially increased energy efficiency (we don’t have air conditioning and the upper floors can get hot) by using an elastomeric paint. However – our lowest level is partially below grade (is above grade on the back), and we have to use a DE-humidifier all year round. The entire house could actually benefit from DE-humidification. I would love to know your thoughts about whether an elastomeric paint would increase our indoor humidity at all? And – if any moisture has penetrated behind the stucco that we aren’t aware of – could it lead to the growth of mold or mildew?
Thanks!
In reply to sue.
An elastomeric coating won’t change the interior humidity levels much, up or down. But, it would allow any moisture to escape from your interior walls, if some gets stuck behind the stucco. This could be a benefit in your situation. Elastomeric coatings are more “breathable” than regular house paints.
Thank you so much for your reply! It is good to know that elastomeric paint won’t increase our already high interior humidity levels.
However, I’m confused regarding your comment that it will prevent moisture from escaping that may have found its way in behind the stucco from the exterior (due to any reason), and how this would be of benefit. Wouldn’t trapping the moisture allow mold (or more mold) to grow?
Also, I’m confused as to how it can both prevent moisture from escaping from the interior and yet be very breathable, and not result in an increase in humidity? It would be great if you could help me to understand this seeming contradiction. Thanks!
In reply to Sue.
Sorry for the confusion. Elastomeric coatings allow moisture to escape but block its entry, 1 way trip out for moisture. Normal house paints are also ‘breathable’ but elastomerics are more ‘breathable’, allowing more water vapor to pass through the coating into the outside.
All coatings will trap some moisture if the levels are to high, example water vapor condensing into a liquid. The original unsealed stucco is very water permeable, behind it should be a water vapor barrier (typically house wrap or tar paper) this protects the interior walls from excessive water and mold but doesn’t block it all, like water vapor entering the wall cavity behind the stucco from the interior humidity. A ‘breathable’ coating can help by allowing some excessive water vapor to escape over time. Between the 2 choices, elastomeric coatings or regular acrylic house paint, the elastomeric coatings allow more water vapor to escape faster. That’s why it’s a better choice.
I see a comment from Ian Wellman that the house with CHIC vinyl is needing coated over.. is this common? I’m trying to decide between elastomeric and chic liquid vinyl
Any advise for Burnt Adobe? Most bricks are OK but a portion have lost their hard exterior shell and are in danger of decay. A small portion of them have already eroded enough that the surface is concave. It has been suggested to use elastomeric patching compound for repair, and then elastomeric paint to renew the protection on the bricks.
I can’t find any research on this. Will this work?
In reply to Kam.
The patching compound will work, mostly, but the bricks need to be stabilized. A “glue” to soak in and harden the surface again. I have used Seal Krete, water based, clear sealer with good results. The idea to apply a water based acrylic sealer to the bricks, several coats (wet on wet) until fully sealed, allow to fully dry then patch. The sealer will soak in and bind with the soft brick, gluing it together.
Remember to apply the sealer until no more will take or soak in. You will need to catch any runs or drip. Another good patching compound is an EFIS base coat, powder, available at your local stucco supply company.
An elastomeric coating will be a good choice once the repairs are complete.
We have a six year old ICF (insulated concrete forms) home covered in Permacrete and then painted with Sherman Williams paint. We have significant leaks in several rooms on the back of the house when it rains and blows in a certain direction and think it may be coming from cracks in the Permacrete. What is the best elastomeric paint you would recommend and what would be the proper application process?
Hi,
We’re having a painter repair some cracks on our stucco that are bigger than a hairline, and then prime and paint it with an elastomeric sherwin-Williams paint. Which specific paint would you recommend? There was mention of Loxon, but it seems there are different ones.
What would be the best one to prevent cracks in the future and hold up to the weather in NJ/NY?
In reply to Devora Liea Zion.
Sherwin Williams offers SherLastic or Loxon XP. The SherLastic elastomeric coating is more stretchy, in my opinion, when compared to the Loxon XP. Sherlastic will do a good job for your home.
In reply to Dana Penney.
Sherwin Williams SherLastic elastomeric coating will work well for your application. Apply a masonry primer first, caulk everything and repair cracks if needed, then 2 coats of the elastomeric coating. Spray and back roll is the preferred application method but both the primer and elastomeric coating can be rolled on.
I have a new grey block wall in Arizona. I thought about stucco for it but paint will be more economical. I am older but am considering doing the work myself. What process would be best?
In reply to Sharon.
First, clean off any dirt or dust. Most cases only need a rinsing with a garden hose and maybe a broom. When dry a primer needs to be applied. An acrylic block fill primer is best. After priming, paint. A normal house paint can be used, best applied with a roller to help fill in any open pores. 2 coats is best.
Hi, I’ve been given a can of PPG elastomeric masonary coating and I’m wondering if it would be possible to use it as a concrete basement floor covering. Any thoughts on this? No paint on the concrete currently. Thanks in advance.
In reply to Caroline Csak.
No, this coating is for vertical surfaces. Not for walking on. You have many options for the floor; concrete stains, epoxy’s and other floor enamels, etc.
I have a problem with woodpeckers attacking the EIFS on my home. Do you have any opinion on the Dryvit “ShieldIt” product? https://www.dryvit.com/media/471355/ds-850.pdf
In reply to Robert.
I have not used this product. But anything will help. Just read the PDF and it sounds neat. For patching you would need to figure out small batch ratio’s for the separate components.
I do know the woodpeckers won’t stop, I think the EFIS sounds hollow to them making them think there is a bug underneath to eat or easy digging for a home. Either way it is a nasty mess.
I have a 35 year old smooth 3 coat stucco home near Phoenix which has been painted many times with elastomeric. Some jobs professionally and some rolled by me. The south walls don’t last very long, maybe 3 years. The paint fades and seems to absorb water. When I have rolled it, I do 2 coats but can see the pattern of my rolling after it is dried and the sun hits it just right. I use Behr elastomeric from Home Depot. Is there anything I can do to achieve a better outcome?
Additional information to my previous post.
A primer was used at the first painting, but not since. When I roll it, it really soaks up the paint so I was wondering if another primer coat might help.
In reply to Al Cleveland.
Another coat would help seal it up better but it was already previously painted then it would be easier to just add another coat of paint. It depends on which is cheaper and easier to do. At this point if the elastomeric coating is in good shape, just faded, then clean it to remove any oxidized coating then paint over with the Duration. The cheapest route.
In reply to Al Cleveland.
A couple things come to mind;
I recently had the stucco repairs on my house. We removed about 4 feet of stucco from the weep screed up.
Applied new paper, did the scratch and brown coat. We then color coated the whole wall with a LA HABRA color coat. I wanted the whole wall to look uniform. The end product does not look uniform at all. The old stucco looks ALOT lighter then the new stucco even after the whole wall was color coated ..
I thought about fogging the whole wall or using a masonry primer then Conflex XL. Then using SW super paint for longevity
1. Will the primer then Conflex XL cover the imperfection of the color coat?
2. Is Conflex XL better then Sherlastic?
3. Should I fog first? Then prime and paint?
4. The color coat was just finished. Should I wait a couple weeks before painting?
5. Best Sherwin-Williams Williams masonry primer?
In reply to John wick.
As long as the texture is uniform across the entire wall, a solid color elastomeric coating should give you the results your after. The Conflex XL, smooth, is a great coating and overall better than Sherlastic. (The textured versions have less elongation characteristics compared to smooth.)
Fogging shouldn’t be needed prior to painting. As long as the surface texture is uniform across the entire wall. If the texture is the problem then fogging will help add surface texture.
You could also apply an acrylic color coat, La Habra offers a few different textures. Perma-Flex Stucco Grade Acrylic Finish comes to mind. Not easy to work with as it dries real fast. You really need several people applying it on the same wall to give a uniform appearance. Nice thing about this option is no painting needed after application, just choose a nice color.
Loxon Concrete & Masonry Primer is the best Sherwin Williams offers.
Wait 3-4 weeks before priming and painting. I think the Loxon primer and Conflex finish can be applied sooner but you need to check with Sherwin Williams first.
Your information is great. Thank you for sharing. We live in South Florida about 5 miles from the ocean. and would like to have our barrel tile roof painted but have been given a few options by various contractors. The first is using elastomeric roof coating, another is Sherwin Williams Kool Seal roof paint and lastly, Acrylux roof paint. What are your thoughts on these options and is elastomeric necessary? I hear it is costly.
In reply to sandy north.
Admittedly, I have very little experience painting roofs. I don’t think the elastomeric is best for your tile roof and I like the other 2 options instead. Choosing 1 or the other is tough. Look to finding real first hand opinions of these materials before making a final decision.
We have a stone wall below a bay window in Los Angeles. We had a window leak that resulted in mold and we are replacing a good deal of the room. A contractor friend suggested using elastomeric paint on the stone wall after priming it to prevent future leaks through the wall. But our contractor used Behr bonding primer which is NOT compatible with stone.
What do you recommend we put over the incompatible primer? Should we skip the elastomeric paint and just use a waterproofing sealer, then coat with regular paint?
Also, we have a small metal roof over the same bay window. It is showing cracks as well. Any recommendations for suitable products to seal that?
Thank you for being such a great resource!
In reply to Robin.
The primer on the stone wall should be fine once painted over. I like applying a water proofing primer then painting over with a good paint. For the steel roof use an acrylic DTM (direct to metal), a washing and sanding (150-180 grit) is recommended prior to painting.
Hello. Thanks for all of the great advice. I own a Victorian in San Francisco and am in the middle of a paint job. A carpenter discovered some areas of water leakage after a primer and two coats of Sherwin Williams Emerald have already been painted. He suggested I do a coat of elastomeric paint on top to help prevent more water damage. Do you think this is a good idea?
In reply to Eleanor Yancey.
Additional paint isn’t needed. Allow the areas to fully dry, figure out were the water is coming from, seal or caulk were needed to stop the water leaking then tough-up. Assuming the primer and paint is still in good shape, not peeling.
We are repainting a smooth stucco house built in the 1930’s. Power washing took almost all of the paint off, but there are areas of paint that would not come off. It has been recommended to repaint with 2 coats of Loxon XP . Since I don’t know what kind of paint remains on the house should I be concerned about adhesion problems with the Loxon XP? I certainly don’t want to have the nightmare of trying to remove elastomeric. The other option I have is to use a Loxon primer sealer and 2 coats of Loxon Acrylic . Which method would you suggest and can you recommend another option so as to avoid a dreaded fail?
In reply to TJ.
I don’t think you will have any adhesion issues using just the Loxon XP. But to make sure prime the stucco then apply the Loxon XP. This would be a “bullet proof” paint job. When in doubt apply primer, you can never go wrong with applying primer.
What primer would you recommend for Loxon XP?
In reply to TJ.
An appropriate primer depends on the surface condition and type. Such as; Previously painted with an acrylic coating or maybe something else, stucco or block, new substrate or old and chalky. There to many variables to consider. Talk to your Sherwin Williams sales rep for primer recommendations.
Hello I recently bought SHERLASTIC Elastomeric Coating paint for my home. I’ve only painted one wall so far but after reading the horror stories I’m a little worried about continuing. My exterior walls are smooth stucco. I planned on spraying and back rolling until A found out people have a problem spraying this paint because of the thickness. I was told that the airless sprayer I purchased (Krause & Becker Airless Sprayer 5/8 horse power) would not work with Elatomeric paint. My question is what should the horse power, psi, gallons per min sprayer will I need to apply Sherlastic correctly? I’m thinking of just taking the $600 dollar lost and by regular house paint.
In reply to Jarvis.
You need to use a .75 or greater gal/per minute pump. A Graco 695 or larger with a 519 or larger tip. This is very thick material so power and volume are needed. If you have an acrylic color coat on your house then you already have an elastomeric, the acrylic color coat is basically a textured elastomeric coating.
Spraying and back-rolling is best but you could also cut-n-roll if needed. Depends on the size of your walls and how hard you want to work.
A normal house paint can be used. Make sure to know if you have a cement based or acrylic color coat. You can paint direct onto the acrylic but cement should be primed. We have used 100’s of gallons of Sherlastic here in Colorado without any problems. It’s possible to have problems with any product or type of product.
Live in stucco house that is 6 yrs old in Austin, Tx. where the summers are long, dry, and hot. Winter temperatures and mild with some days below freezing. Rain is mostly in the spring, fall, and winter. I received 4 painting bids and need help deciding what is best for me. 1) one coat of Sherwin Williams Sherlastic elastomeric paint. 2) one coat of Sherwin Williams Super Paint 3) 2 coats of Sherwin Williams Super Paint 4) One coat of Sherwin Williams Emerald paint. The elastomeric paint bid is the least expensive, but getting a paint job that will last the longest while resisting fading, mildew, and dirt is more important than cost. What do you recommend?
2 story house in southern NJ, southern exposure. It’s textured stucco built in the 90’s . Never painted and has some minor cracks. We are considering painting and my brother has estimates for his similar job ranging from 3k to 10k. My husband has painted our interior, but never exterior and never with a sprayer. Due to the grade it’s a little too high to reach on a ladder, so we’d have to rent scaffolding. If we diy, How hard of a job would rolling be on a 2 story house? Sounds like acrylic is easier to work with. If he has his way we will only be in this house 5 more years. I’m worried the elastomeric paint will be too hard to work with. Sounds like we need 3 total coats no matter what type? What minimum should we look for if we decide to get quotes? Just going to a slightly darker beige. Also, what about masonry stain instead of paint?
In reply to Cindy b.
First, make sure your comfortable working high and fit as this is hard work no matter which way you go. Renting scaffolding isn’t cheap but worth while checking out; cheaper if you rent enough for 1 side (not the whole house) and assemble/disassemble it yourself.
Using a paint sprayer isn’t necessary for all finishes but recommended for elastomerics and masonry stain. Painting large areas is difficult with a roller as roller marks can show up easily if a wet edge isn’t maintained. Try to work in the shade as much as you can or choose cooler mornings for hot sides.
Raw stucco will need extra materials. I suggest a first coat of masonry primer then 1 heavy coat of elastomeric or 2 coats of regular house paint. If the primer is applied well (fill pores as much as possible) then the paint will be much easier to apply. Plus the primer doesn’t have to be perfect looking, just make sure to work it with a roller into the stucco.
Masonry stain, solid color stain, is a possibility. Must be sprayed 2 coats for an even color without blotchy areas. Would be easier and quicker, labor saving, but still eat up materials quickly.
Your price ranges, quotes, are wide ranging. I’m assuming the 10k is a bomb proof paint job with the cheapest a quick coat of something. If you choose to hire out consider mid or higher, even if you plan on selling in a few years. No need to repaint before the sale with a better paint job.
In reply to Pat.
Out of the choices you provide; I would go with either #1 or #3. #3- Make sure the first coat is backrolled to better fill the pores.
#1- The elastomeric is fine if they plan on spraying it very heavy, backrolling, then respraying (wet on wet application). If this is the case then this would be better overall. Sherlastic is a nice coating and can be repainted with a regular house paint later when a new color or fresh look is needed.
Sorry I can’t be more specific as I don’t know what these painters plan on doing or the type of stucco color coat you have. Talk to the painters to get more application info and a better feel for the job they offer.
I am needing to vapor proof one small wall in a wine cellar – the other three walls are insulated and covered in plastic under the drywall. I would rather not have to remove the drywall and replace and then repaint – is there a product that will serve as good of a vapor barrier in a wine cellar? It is a basement room and the wall needing treated has a very expensive, insulated and sealed wine cellar door that weighs about 400 pounds.
In reply to Daniel.
There are many primers and paints that act as vapor barriers. A popular brand is Dryloc. This can be applied by brush and roller and can be the finish color, if tinted, or painted over with you favorite color. Check out what is available in your area, many manufactures have their own version.
Your generous advice exemplifies the best qualities of the internet, and I am grateful to have found it.
I have an access well to an unfinished attic in Minneapolis. In winter, cold air from the attic sinks into it and chills the plaster of the interior living spaces. In addition to building an insulated hatch door above it, I’ve removed the plaster and lath from the well’s inner walls in order to insulate them. They’d then be sheathed in backer board and tile. But I first want to add a vapor barrier to the lath and plaster on the backside of the living space walls. I was recently given 5 gal. of Diamond Vogel Permaflex. My question is, would it be worth the effort to spray it into the stud bays against the back side of the lath and plaster of the rooms on the other side of the walls before insulating?
In reply to Chris Nolan.
It wouldn’t hurt but there is little benefit to applying the Permaflex to these areas. It might act as a vapor barrier but this is untested. It is best used outside somewhere as intended. Heavy plastic sheeting can be applied over the insulation and studs to act as the vapor barrier.
I’m building a home and the builder placed two hopper windows in the wrong place. They refilled them with rebarb and concrete and would like to cover the imperfections on the exterior with Sherlastic by Sherman Williams. Do you think this is a good options to cover it. I’m concerned this is a short term fix for a permanent problem. I would love to hear your advice.
In reply to Chelsea.
The Sherlastic is just a smooth elastomeric coating and as such won’t really hide anything, you will still see surface imperfections.
A better idea would be the application of a stucco color coat, possibly a base coat first depending on how smooth the concrete is. An alternative to standard cement stucco is an EFIS color coat, think of this as a textured elastomeric that is troweled on. It would stick really well and be fully paintable in the future. Sherwin Williams has a product called Power Wall, at least here in Colorado, that works well. Your painter might be familiar with it.
Thank you some much for your help. We wanted to make a well informed decision and you have helped with that.
learned some from comments, still confused. I have a 17year old Florida stucco house don’t know what process builder used
Painter says they will pressure wash first fix cracks with electrometric then paint with Sherwin Williams.
Questions.
1. should they let filled cracks cure for 24 hours before any other process. ?
2. is a primer needed before Sherlastic or is Sherlastic the final step
3. 2 coats of Sherlastic > how thick should I ask them to do the Sherlastic ? I am afraid of the horror stories of Sherlastic.
Please take me through the proper steps to ensure cracks are done correctly and painting last 10 plus years.
In reply to Sandra Marchand.
This article explains how to paint stucco- https://www.house-painting-info.com/articles/stucco
My home is 110 years old with the original cement/stucco over terra cotta block. It has not been painted in at least 80 years if at all. Prob not at all. It is in great condition. Hairline cracks and some larger cracks and a few bad patch jobs. The house was covered in ivy for YEARS and has all of the ivy remnants on the facade.
One historic stucco restoration expert (i am finding that there are not many) says skim coat the entire house in new stucco and update the color. $60,000 Another says that would ruin the beautiful look of the original stucco – which is what makes the house so historic. He reco’s using an elastomeric paint. Is this good for old old houses? Does it need to be primed first? After the power washing? I read that there may be issues with moisture and breathability, but I also read hear that elastomeric paint does breath. What would you reco as an expert. Thank you so much for any advice.
In reply to Courtney Trent.
The best is to re-skim a new coat of stucco, any color you want. I don’t understand why this would ruin the historic look, the new coat of stucco could mimic the old look.
The elastomeric coating is an option, and would be fine for your older home. It breaths well and if properly applied and maintained will never peel. The drawbacks are; the stucco will look painted and won’t hide imperfections. I’m sure this is the cheaper option.
Application is straightforward; wash, prime then apply 2 coats with the first coat backrolled to fill fine cracks and remaining pores.
What is the best option? Well, if you want to restore the stucco and maintain the homes historic value then a new coat of stucco is your best option. If you are on a budget, can’t afford the stucco option, then the elastomeric is the best option all around.
Hello, great article. Our painter has proposed painting our San Diego stucco home with 2 coats of Super Paint, no primer. We’re going from a light beige to a darker blue color. The stucco is almost 20 years old and faded with some small cracks, but still in relatively good overall good shape, Is this a good plan? Are there benefits of going with a higher priced (and considerably more expensive) product like Duration? Thanks.
In reply to Mike.
Nothing wrong with Super Paint. Duration and Emerald are better, longer lasting with less fading, but the price is considerably higher. Super Paint should last 8+ years before needing a new coat. Duration can go 2-4 more years. A dark blue would be better with Duration or Emerald, dark colors fade faster.
Your painter has a good plan. Not all stucco needs primer and the Super Paint will stick really well. The only question now is; Do you want to pay extra for the better paint? The only paint we use now is Emerald but we’re painting at 5-6000ft, lots of extra UV light.
Our San Diego home was built in 1952 and is all wood siding. The south and west walls get a lot of sun. Our contractor proposes to replace the wood siding on these walls with Hardie board. He also is proposing elastomeric paint on top of that. And then acrylic paint on top of that. Would it be ok to just do the acrylic paint and skip the elastomeric coating? Do we really need the elastomeric? Thank you.
In reply to Karen.
Good regular acrylic paint works great with hardie board. There really isn’t the need for the elastomeric. The contractor most likely is using the elastomeric as the prime coat. This would be a “bullet” proof paint job for sure. A little overkill? Maybe, but if the price is good to you go for it.
Great information! I have a quick question. I’m looking into painting the exterior of my 3 year old stucco house with an elastomeric paint, and my painter recommended to use Moorlastic from Benjamin Moore. I was thinking of using the Silcolastic from Sto because I used Sto’s stucco and I can match the color 100% (I will paint two sides of the house, trying to waterproof the house from driving rain on the other two sides). If cost is not an issue what would your recommendation be?
In reply to Con.
The BM Moorlastic is a very good product, I have used it before with fine results. I haven’t used the StoColor Silcolastic so don’t have any reference point for comparison. I did notice it is a silicone emulsion, this could be an issue later if you want to overcoat with a standard exterior acrylic paint. Something to ask about; What is the maintenance like? Is it easily coated with itself or other waterbased paints/coatings later or are you stuck using this product only? If price is no problem then the sto product sounds nice just ask the questions before making a final decision.
Thank you for your reply!!
Hi!
Quick question. I have a stucco house from the 40s. The house has already been repainted 3 times and now need to be repainted (to protect it).
I have had painters coming to evaluate the job but they have a different approach.
– one suggested that elastomeric paint would suffocate the house and create condensation in the walls.
– most would use dryvit weatherlastic
– a few (the cheapest) would use SW Loxon XP.
Do you have any opinion?
I live in Canada with really cold winters.
Thank you!
In reply to David.
Elastomeric won’t cause condensation in your walls. It has better air transfer than regular house paint. This idea come from the 90’s when EFIS systems where use on some residential housing and some homes where damaged with “toxic house syndrome” caused by mold. The actual cause was using foam board insulation on the exterior that trapped the moisture in the walls.
Using an elastomeric coating on stucco is a good option. I’m aware of the Dryvit product, used something simular in the past, but never used it myself so can’t comment to much about it. But the Loxon XP is a fine product that will serve you well if you go with it.
The Dryvit Weatherlastic is a textured coating that will be troweled over your existing stucco. This is very different from painting the stucco. Confirm with the contractors that this is the case before making a final decision. I have used a simular product by La Habbra Stucco that will easily outlast any paint so this mightbe a good option if you can afford it.
Which is the best option for you? I can’t answer that directly but if I could afford the Dryvit option I would do that. It will provide an entirely new look depending on the texture chosen. Now might be a good time to do some pop-outs around windows/doors and other decorative “accessories”. Just a thought.
Dryvit Weatherlastic Sample from their website.
Hi!
Thanks for the reply. The contractor are telling me that they are applying the dryvit with a paint gun as they would do with the Loxon XP. They seems like a similar product to me.
They are telling me that They have no choice considering the kind of stucco.
It looks something like this (make me think of rice crispies)
In reply to David.
Must be the smooth Dryvit Weatherlastic. This is basically an elastomeric, not much different than Sherwin Williams Sherlastic or similar. I don’t know what the advantage would be. This would take more research to find out if it is truly better than cheaper coatings.
The picture does look like Rice Krispies sprayed on the building. Not my thing, rather have more traditional looking stucco.
Thank you again for your replies!
Quick last question. My contractor told me that Loxon XP is elastomeric but when I look at the product on internet, I’m confused. I see on the SW page that Loxon XP is acrylic while Sherlastic is elastomeric. Is that right? If so, would the sherlastic be better to protect my “Rice Krispies” house which has already 3 coatings of paint?
Thank you
In reply to David.
This is how it was explained to me, by the SW sales rep; The Loxon XP isn’t a traditional elastomeric as it uses a different set of resins but it has great vapor permeability and fantastic elongation, more so than the Sherlastic. I think it will work great for your application.
You have so may coats of old coatings now that your walls aren’t doing a whole lot of breathing anyway.
Thank you again for the reply.
Another contractor now suggested a new product: Sherwin Williams Emerald.
Considering I live in a very cold climate, my house is in “Rice Krispies” Stucco, it is old (1940) and has already been painted in the past. Would you recommend the Loxon XP or Emerald?
Also, this new contractor suggests to use silicone to fix cracks in the stucco. I’m afraid of the degradation of the silicone, but he says that since the silicone is going to be painted and not exposed to the sun it is really long lasting. Do you have an opinion on this?
Thank you
David
In reply to David.
These are very different products. Emerald is Sherwin Williams top-of-the-line acrylic house paint. It will do well, I use it on houses with masonite and wood siding, but overall the Loxon XP is a more appropriate product for your stucco.
Never use 100% silicone caulking under paint. Paint will not stick to it. I’m assuming the painter plans on using a siliconized acrylic caulking. A much better alternative to a standard caulking is Sherwin Williams Shermax Urethanized Elastomeric Sealant. I use this stuff on all exterior paint jobs, never had a call back.
So, either or with the Emerald and Loxon. I like the Loxon for masonry substrates as it goes on thicker (covers hairline cracks well) and more stretchy but the Emerald is a fine paint with very good UV resistance.
I have a chimney with soft brick. This chimney was previously painted with a high gloss acrylic masonry paint. There is some peeling exposing the soft brick. My question will elastomeric paint adhere to the high gloss paint?
In reply to Norman Piper.
It will adhere but will mostly stay on top. I do suggest “priming” first to harden the soft brick. There are several good hardeners on the market. A very good masonry conditioner is LOXON Acrylic Conditioner by Sherwin Williams. You can also use Zinsser Peel Stop in a pinch to harden the soft brick.
We painted our concrete foundation with Loxon XP. We had some leftover so painted part of a basement concrete wall with it (about 16 feet). Later realized it’s supposed to be for exterior only. Worried about VOCs. How long to cure? And once cured should we encapsulate it with a sealer or put a primer/paint over it with low VOC? What products? Or will it be safe as is?
In reply to Jane Fig.
It will be safe as is. Loxon XP is a low voc coating. Full cure will take 3-4 weeks as with most paints.
we used Boysen elastomeric paint for our exterior walls.. it is very much reliable
I painted with a premium Sherwin Williams exterior house paint 10 years ago. The Sun-facing sides (east, south and west) are doing great, the shaded north side is peeling. Is there a sealer I missed or another way to repair this? I’m ready to look for some oil-based enamel military naval paint!
In reply to Doc Ross.
Usually it’s the south side that fails first. Paint peels for a reason so lets look for anything that can cause the peeling. You don’t mention the construction materials used for your house, the type of typical weather, humidity, etc. What about mold or algae? These can cause the paint to fail sooner.
Is it possible some water vapor is getting behind the paint film? Roof leaks, driving rain or snow through soffit vents or bad roof flashing are all possibilities. Look for any problems and fix those before painting.
After all this the only thing left is scraping off any loose paint, sand if needed and at least spot prime the “bad” areas. A decent oil base primer will be good. Zinsser Cover Stain is good and rather cheap.
If you have any paint left over from the last time you could touch-up the peeled and primed areas. Or repaint the entire side. A satin sheen will be best.
Is there a product comparable to elastomeric paint that is more easily applied ? We reside in Massachusetts, and currently have acrylic stain on approximate 30 year old wood clapboard siding that is in good shape. Any advice you can provide would be appreciated. Thanks.
Jim
In reply to jim.
Use a good regular exterior house paint. The elastomeric is best used on stucco and other masonry substrates.
Not sure if you’re still responding to inquiries about this topic, but I figured I’d give it a whirl!
My husband and I just purchased a home that was built in 1901. The house has a rusticated brick exterior. Also called rock face block. We are having the home completely renovated, and really want get the house painted. What is the best way to go about it so that the brick is preserved and can “breathe” and so that we don’t create any issues for ourselves years down the road? Our inspector said the home is SOLID…like a bomb shelter (his words!), which we like the idea of. We don’t want to do anything that will compromise the integrity of the home. Any advice?
In reply to E. Car.
Two solutions come to mind; Acrylic paint or elastomeric coating (solid color solution) or a acrylic masonry sealer (either clear or as a stain). The solution best for you depends on the aesthetics and longevity desired. Solid color solutions will last the longest but might not be the best look. The clear or stain solutions might have to be applied every 3-5 years depending on your local weather conditions and UV exposure.
Can a wood elastomeric paint be a good option for a large wooden deck? I live in the desert if AZ crazy changes i temperatures and blistering sun mist of the year. the Deckover paint only lasted 2-3 years. a what would be the best application?
In reply to VSAZ2011.
The elastomeric deck coatings I’ve seen are lousy and can ruin a deck, especially the floor. They will peel eventually and are very difficult to repair or remove. Be careful with this type of product.
We are repainting a 6ft concrete retaining wall that has bubbled and peeled in places. Bubbling gets worse if we have unusually heavy rain. The house was constructed in the 70s. I believe the back side of the retaining wall was superficially sealed according to practices at that time. It will be impossible to dig out and properly seal the back side of this wall. Should we paint the wall with elastomeric, or will this just hold the moisture inside the wall and encourage bubbling? Or, is there another painting methodology that we should use?
In reply to David Kent.
I wouldn’t paint the wall. This would just trap moisture. If possible; Remove all coatings and use a concrete stain instead. Maybe a power washer could remove the current coating(s).
You can also install a french drain and divert the rain water to prevent further damage.If this is successful then painting is a possibility.
Hello everybody I haven’t read all the comments but I see a few similar things in a lot of them and I would have to say that you need to double check with the manufacturer because there can be a lot of differences with the specific formula. in my country the elastomeric paint is for roof coating but it can also be used on walls and it is breathable, so it does not lock in the moisture. I’ve seen some comments with people saying to put some sort of waterproof paint under the elastomeric and I would say that can be a bad idea because you may be trapping moisture in your house and generally you want to make sure the paint is breathable. also as far as longevity, I live close to the sea and the sun and wind here are very strong what I’ve noticed even with stuff like concrete it doesn’t take much time within a year or two crack start to appear so I think a lot of it depends on your environment. I have found the elastomeric paint I’ve used to be long-standing. it forms sort of a rubbery texture after drying and for me it’s relatively easy to remove, I could remove it by hand if need be. it’s sort of peels off but there are various different types of elastomeric paint the one I used is an acrylic water-based, there are different formulations that may make a particular elastomeric paint very difficult to remove. happy painting people. oh and my manufacturer recommends two to three coats for maximum performance and not to use on flat surfaces because pooling water will eventually destroy the product even though it is a waterproofing paint.